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Peak Mountain 3

The Throne

FA Mike Clinton & Bill Demaillie, 1988
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is the bolted line on the same face that

Cro-Magnon

and

Serrated Jam Crack

are located. I really liked this climb, lots of good hard face climbing with some nice exposure towards the end. The route starts on the face just right of the start to

Cro-Magnon

and

Serrated Jam Crack

. Some hard moves need to be passed before the first bolt, then at which point, make the crux moves out left to join

Cro-Magnon

right before its crux. The Throne continues to move up and left via some more 11ish face moves to the arete with bolts for protection. Then just run it out with easier climbing to an anchor with a bolt and two pins.

Location

To reach the base of this route, take the same 1st pitch as

Cro-Magnon

or

Serrated Jam Crack

. Another option is to climb P1 of

Gambit

, and traverse right along the ledge and scramble up to the base of the route. You can do two rappels to get back to the ground, or pull left around the arete at the top and continue up with

Gambit

.

Protection

There's 5 bolts leading to the anchor on this route. Getting to the first bolt can be protected with a micro stopper (I used a # 5) and between the 1st and 2nd you can get the same pro in that you would for the crux of

Cro-Magnon

(#0.5 Camalot for me).