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Peak Mountain 3

Backflip

FA Steve Shea & Dick Jimmerson, 1968
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a route with a couple of superb corners but also some rather questionable sections. Hike around to the east of the 100 foot high flatiron that leans against the face. Backflip begins in the long, clean right-facing flake near the narrow gully which separates the main rock from the Bookmark Pinnacle.

P1. Climb the 5.8 flake with excellent liebacks and hand-jams, and belay at its top.

P2. Ascend an easy corner on the left to a long ledge.

P3. Take the right of two clean, thin dihedrals (the other being

Romulan Territority

). After 30 or so feet, undercling out right where it turns into a roof. Belay on easier ground at some flakes. (5.8) Variations: 1) turn the 5.9 roof capping the dihedral, belay, and then continue in a crack to the end of

Romulan Territority

; 2) after the undercling, continue up an attractive looking but very thin 5.9 dihedral, and arrange a belay at its top.

P4. Climb up and right, then back left to a broken area, and continue to easy ground and the eastern descent, 5.8 or so, but a much lower quality pitch. Variation: directly above the belay is a 5.9 seam that apparently was the original line of the route. There is no longer a pin in this seam but according to the comments below, it protects reasonably with micro gear.

Protection

Standard rack.