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Peak Mountain 3

Screamin' Eagles

FA Eli Helmuth
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Description

Getting past the first and third bolts could be the crux - a bit of a long reach at the first bolt. Very interesting holds, great position, and outstanding orange granite make this a different style from your typical Lumpy outing. On the FA, I climbed the runout but easy (dirty) face on the left edge of the arete above the route. One could also step far right at the ledge and finish on the last three bolts of

Wigglin'

(12a) for a bit more action.

Location

Start 15" left of

Wigglin' Fingies

on the east face of Bookmark Pinnacle. Rappel or lower off the two-bolt anchor on Wigglin' -20m.

Protection

Small cams can be helpful to reach the first bolt and 1 or 2 cams in the 2" range above the bolts to protect the runout finish to the anchors on

Wigglin'

.