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Peak Mountain 3

Cave Route

FA Bill Forrest and Don Briggs, 1966
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is probably the easiest way to get to the Upper Terrace on Bookmark Pinnacle, but the climbing is low quality and awkward. Scramble up the descent gully on the north side of the pinnacle until roping up becomse prudent. Climb up to the top of the gully and look for two cracks splitting the north side of the Upper Terrace. The left crack is a hand crack, the right crack is an offwidth. Jam up the handcrack try to avoid the bushes and guano.

From the Upper Terrace you can either climb the summit blade as a second pitch (reccommended) or rap off from the anchor on Time Machine.

Rappelling from the chockstone in the chimney between the Upper Terrace and the summit blade is not reccomended.

Location

This route is located high in the descent gully on the north side of Bookmark Pinnacle.

If going to the summit, descend as for East Side, otherwise it appears to be possible to rappel from the anchors of Time Machine on the east side of the Upper Terrace.

Protection

Standard rack, pro to 3"