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Peak Mountain 3

Dead in Bed

FA unknown
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Description

This is a very fun 4 pitch route on the west face of the Bookmark.

Pitch 1. Start with the first pitch of Fantasy Ridge, the left leaning hand and fist crack. Belay below a large flake.(~70ft).

Pitch 2. Continue up the left leaning dual cracks (2nd pitch of Sidewinder). At the top of the dual cracks head up and a little right up a 5.8 hand crack. Belay on a large ledge with a large horn on its right side. (~160ft)

Pitch 3. Crux pitch. Locate the thin crack directly above the ledge. It just to the right of a large left facing dihedral. Climb up the thin crack to a horizontal break and then traverse left to a hand/fist crack and belay there. Felt similar to but slightly easier than Thindependence (10b, ~70ft).

Pitch 4. Climb the hand/fist crack to the top (5.9, ~120ft)

Location

West face of the Bookmark. Same location at Fantasy Ridge.

Protection

SR with a #4 for the pitch #4 fist crack and a few extra small stoppers for the crux.