The Red Arete (aka Myra)

Although technically 5 pitches of mixed sport and trad, this route is all about the two fantastic pitches of hard sport climbing in the middle of the route. These pitches tackle the stunning overhanging arete to the left of the

Red Dihedral

, and are both solid 5.13c. Overall, the route feels harder than the climbing on any individual pitch given its airy nature and the approach to get there.

P1: 5.6, 80’. Climb the corner as per P1 of The Red Arete to a two-bolt anchor.

P2: 5.9, 80’. 4th Class up and right across a blocky ledge, and then climb up a slab past 3 bolts and a medium-size wire placement to the anchor shared by the

Red Dihedral

.

P3: 5.13c, 70’. Climb the overhanging arete starting on the left, then move right and finally back left and over the lip. This continuous pitch involves a lot of slapping and palming on the blunt arete. A bosun’s chair is nice for the hanging belay at the top of the pitch.

P4: 5.13c, 100’. Climb past three bolts up and left and then back right to the base of an overhanging crack. Climb the overhanging crack until it ends at a downward-facing rock tooth that leads back to the arete. Finagle your way up this difficult section to a shake, and then climb out the steep overhang to the left to the final dramatic overhanging arete that leads to easier ground above. Work up and slightly left to the anchor.

P5: 5.11c, 70’. Traverse right and climb the right side of the final arete up steep terrain until the climbing angle and difficulty eases. The final 20 feet of this pitch is only 5.8, but it’s steep and unprotected.

A couple of obvious challenges remain available for the strong and adventurous climber, including linking pitches 3 and 4 and establishing a direct finish on pitch 5.

Josh Wharton not only had the vision for this route, he was also smart enough to recruit me to do a good portion of the work to establish it with him. A lot of my time bolting, cleaning and working the route was spent thinking of my mom who went into hospice during this period. She had a funny name but a graceful spirit.

Start in an obvious corner as per the

Red Dihedral

.

P1: a few stoppers and medium-size cams.

P2: 3 bolts and a medium-size stopper.

P3: 7 bolts.

P4: 11 bolts.

P5: 7 bolts?