Simian's Way

Begin about 50 feet uphill from the obvious

Green Dihedral

below the first pitch splitter finger crack. With a 60m rope, you can probably do this in two pitches if you set the first belay fairly high.

P1. Climb a steep, juggy face for about 15 feet. Climb around a short flake and onto a good stance at the base of an awesome looking finger crack. Climb the crack with great gear and even better jams. Stop at the fixed slings if only doing this pitch (now bolted anchor). If continuing on, make a rising traverse left into a right-facing dihedral, and belay below a steep, broken section directly below the offwidth. This is a definite 3-star pitch, 5.9+.

P2. Climb through a steep, chossy section with great holds so long as they stay put. Pull over a deceptively tricky bulge, and crawl on in the slightly overhung, flaring crack. When I did this, there was a fixed hex + nut equalized with some rap rings at the crux bulge of the offwidth. The crux may be in manuvering around these pieces, but they do give peace of mind. After the bulge, the crack pinches down from flaring offwidth to flaring fingertips. Bring a purple Metolius. Pull one final bulge with some more trickery, and continue up much easier ground (some 5.8, lots of bird shit) until reaching a suitable belay stance. I stopped about 40 feet shy of scrambling at the top, 5.11a.

P3. Climb a short pitch up a right-facing dihedral, and trend up and left towards the saddle once on easy ground, 5.8.

To descend, scramble around the back of the tower towards the fixed rap stations. Route finding is a little tricky. By staying low, we found a rap station off of a questionable tree that led to a walkable gully below the fixed stations.

Up to a #3.5 Camalot for the offwidth and an optional #4 below it. There are fixed anchors on top of the stellar first pitch.