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Peak Mountain 3

Vergin' on Perversion

FA DeMallie & Hare - 1989
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Vergin' on

Perversion

climbs the arete just right of the obvious

Perversion

dihedral system. The line is a bit contrived in places, but the rock and climbing is brillant. Two or three stars for the first three pitches for sure.

P1: Scramble up and left on some ledges and start up a thin crack with two or three bolts. About 50' up you can step right, following a line of bolts around the arete. Belay on an obvious ledge at a single bolt and some gear. 110' 5.11a.

P2: Climb a short (30') dihedral. It would be sensible to link this with either P1 or P3. Belay on a ledge. 5.9.

P3: Follow the line of bolts back out to the arete, and eventually around the corner (crux). There are two 5.11 sections on this pitch. Belay at two bolts. 115' Quickdraws only for this pitch.

P4: Wander up and right, passing a tree on your left, on easy ground. Perform an unprotected 5.8ish move at the arete (lots of lichen here), then step up and slightly left to clip the lone bolt on this pitch. An easy 5.10 face move gains easy climbing to the top. 120' 5.10a.

Protection

Single set of cams to #0.75 Camalot, wires, 10 draws.