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Peak Mountain 3

Far Left Low Chimney

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Description

Fun interesting moves (without squirming), but too short in itself.

But makes a fun connection for a multi-pitch from the bottom (Melchsee) to cliff-top of Miroir).

Or makes a nice start to the "Voie Directe" or "Zygofolis" routes in the upper part.

Or could be used to access the Mid-Level Ledge at the top of lower part and the bottom of the upper part of sector Miroir.

Up the wide open corner / gully to the ledge at its top.

Variation: Instead take the face to the left of the chimney (less interesting and not easier).

Top-Rope: Could be use the two-bolt anchor at left side of top of Miroir as top anchor, and have bottom-belayer on the Mid-Level Ledge.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Partway up along the left edge of the Miroir face is an obvious gully / wide open corner of broken rock.

Find it by scrambling up arouund the left side of sector 7 Melchsee, then continuing a bit higher than the ledge at the top of the Melchsee face.

See A on this Photo

. . . .

or on this Photo

Protection

1 intermediate bolt for leading to a two-bolts-connected-by-climbing-rope top anchor about fifteen feet away on ledge.

. . (bolts and hangers are 304 Stainless, installed 2017).

Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see

Description page for Moynier sector

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