NorthEast ridge Left side

Interesting moves on a variety of rock features.

Could be used as a second pitch continuation of the routes "Left Ridge" or "Connect" of sector Secor.

Start about twenty feet horizontal right (over tree trunk) from two-bolt anchor near right end of Mid-Level Ledge.

Follow corners and cracks off to the left side of the ridge crest, aim to finish a few feet

left

of bolt anchor for the route "NE Ridge DIrect".

. . . (Variation Finish: Instead of staying left, finish "direct" close or on the crest of the ridge to the top anchor for "NE Ridge DIrect" - but not not so well protected, and lacks positive holds).

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Twenty feet or so horizontal right over tree trunk from two-bolt anchor near right end of Mid-Level Ledge. Just left from crest of ridge and obvious bush on ridge crest.

Obvious way to reach this is by first climbing the route "Left Ridge" of sector 9 Secor (or any other route that connects from sector Secor to sector Moynier).

Can also be reached by traversing right (clamblering over the trunk of a tree) from the Mid-Level Ledge. There is a bolt above the traverse right from the anchor for Mambo (which is also a rappel anchor), which is intended to protect the move right down from the trunk of the tree.

See R on this Photo

8 bolts for intermediate Lead protection up to two-bolt anchors (choose among Lower or Upper left or Upper right).

Upper Left anchor is most useful for parties who want to "top out" and visit the Siverhorn summit.

. . . HIghest intermediate bolt is very close (below left) to Lower anchor -- but it is also used by leaders who are skipping that anchor to go for the Upper Left anchor).

. . . Going "direct" to the top anchor in highest part seems run-out, because no positive holds, and the lead bolt is off to the left.

Lower anchor is two-bolts-connected-by-chain with ramshorn lower-off.

. . (bolts + upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel 3/8-inch x 2.75-inch. Lower hanger + ramshorn (pigs tail) lower-off are 316 Stainless steel. 4-link chain + quick-links are Plated steel. Installed 2018).

Upper Left anchor is two-bolts-connected-by-chain with rappel ring.

. . (for details about this anchor,

See under Protection for the route "Right High Face"

).

Upper Right anchor is two-bolts-connected-by-chain with ramshorn lower-off..

. . (for details about this anchor,

See under Protection for the route "NorthWest Ridge Direct"

).

. . . intermediate bolts for leading are all 304 Stainless steel 3/8-inch x 2.75-inch. Installed 2018.

Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see

Description page for Moynier sector

.

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.