- Edit (TBD)
Description
Interesting moves.
directions
: Start on wide ledge / platform on top left of sector 9 Secor.
Stay to right side of ridge crest - sometimes farther right.
Logical point to finish first pitch is at a bush above right from the big bush blocking the crest of the ridge.
Next roughly straight up staying off to right side of ridge crest to finish around the corner to right of two-bolt anchor.
warning
: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).
Location
Wide ledge / platform on top left of sector 9 Secor. This could be reached by Leading the route "Hammerbruch" on sector Secor.
See T on this Photo
Protection
Fixed protection is only two top anchors. No intermediate bolts for leading.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown, and likely inadequate.
Lower top anchor is two bolts not connected and with no attached lower-off hardware.
. . (bolts + hangers are 304 Stainless steel 3/8-inch x 2.75-inch. Installed 2018).
. . (perhaps these two bolts could be connected by a 9-link chain + quick-links).
Upper top anchor is two-bolts-connected-by-chain with ramshorn lower-off.
. . (for details about this anchor,
See under Protection for the route "NorthWest Ridge Direct"
).
For parties who want to "top out" onto the summit ridge of the Silverhorn, there is a two-bolt anchor on the summit ridge about 12-15 feet above left from the two-bolts-with-chain anchor which is just below the cliff-top.
. . (for details about this anchor,
See under Protection for the route "Right High Face"
).
Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see
Description page for Moynier sector
.
note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.
In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.
Routes in 8-Moynier
- 21NorthEast ridge Right side5.7+Tr