- Edit (TBD)
Description
I followed David Light up this mostly undocumented route on November 12, 2021. I had looked at it from nearby routes during the previous January.
Pitch 1: climb an easy weakness for about 20 feet. Then follow a right-angling crackness, which crosses over the
Young and Rackless
. Join Post-Quarter-Life Crisis, and go straight up to its bolted anchor (5.8). David built a gear anchor near the bolts.
Pitch 2: follow the burly right-angling dihedral, which has an occasionally wide crack, to its end (10-). Continue over a bulge with long reaches to usable features (10-). Continue up a ways, and build an anchor. Post-climb research revealed that this is the second-pitch variation to Post-Quarter-Life Crisis.
Pitch 3: follow a weakness diagonally left, crossing over a bulge and the
YaR
(5.7). Belay at or near the start of the last pitch of Butt Dial or Booty Call.
Pitch 4: climb up to the first overhang, and traverse right, being careful to avoid bat guano. Continue up, passing around the next overhangs, staying left of the
YaR
and eventually reaching its top (5.8+).
Descent: rap twice to the ground.
Location
Start just left of the
YaR
.
Protection
A standard rack through a #4 and a 60m rope.
Routes in Upper East Face
- 1The Old and Undocumented5.10-Trad