Schizofrantic

See description and topo on pages 30 and 31 of the Mark Rolofson Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide.

I thought Schizofrantic is way better and way harder than other 11a/b Boulder Canyon sport climbs I've done recently. The difficulty I experienced may have been due to the multiple cruxes, some strenuous, with no warm-up. I ended up hanging at all cruxes except the first, but I later did it clean on TR. Rolofson rates the cruxes as 11a (off the ground), 11a bulge, 10d dihedral (trad), 11b bouldery moves off the optional belay, 11a.

In my opinion Schizofrantic earns a few demerits for some unnecessary bolts (you are carrying a decent trad rack, so might as well place gear at several of the bolts), and for just barely skirting obvious trad variations. I'm surprised there isn't a trad climb in this area. Only the headwall above the optional belay is lacking in trad opportunities.

Approach: Schizofrantic is on the east face of East Blob Rock. Hike up the main Blob Rock trail and walk east along the base of Blob Slab. Head left up the gully along the base of the east face of East Blob. You will pass a large standing dead tree (Young and Rackless), and then the wall starts to overhang. The large right facing corner with a wide crack is Nighthawk, 10a. Just right of that is the trad finger crack, 12a Mile High Comic Crack. Right of that is the bolted finger crack The Enlightenment 13b/c. Right of that is a left facing corner and a large log across the gully. A few feet right of that 2 bolts lead over a bulge right off the ground. That's Schizofrantic.

Climb the initial bulge (11a) to a ramp, place some gear, and step left onto a steep wall to a rounded ledge (11a). You can more easily step right a move and bypass this section. The next section is trad. Reach right and then follow a crack left and up to a right facing dihedral. Finishing the dihedral to the optional belay ledge is 10d.

It doesn't make sense to me to belay at this ledge. There is a good 2-bolt anchor and another bolt a couple feet higher, but you'd be doing the 11b crux moves with hardly any rope out. So continue...

Some hard technical moves lead to a tricky short traverse left. You can get a small cam in the crack above. There is a bolt straight up. You can use the crack on the left in combination with holds on the right to move straight up to the bolt, or easier, just move left low and reach back right to clip. The final easier moves continue up a crack on the left until you can step back right onto big holds and then up to a ledge and the anchors.

Descent: CAREFUL. This really is 100'. Our rope hung short of the ground unweighted, but reached with rope stretch.

11 bolts plus 2 sets of anchors (there is an optional belay 2/3 of the way up). Plus trad gear: double cams from micro to 1", singles above that to hand size. The Rolofson guide suggests nuts, but I didn't place any.