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Peak Mountain 3

The Ticket

FA Tim Hudgel, Dan Hare, Marc Hirt, 1987
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is an excellent route with great climbing on good rock.

It is slightly overhanging with two distinct crux headwalls separate by a good ledge/ramp. The variety of finger locks, jugs, crimps and slopers require good footwork, body position, and endurance.

The Ticket is located in Boulder Canyon, at the Upper East Face of Blob Rock, up the grassy gully between East Blob and Bitty Buttress. (Not the gully next to Blob Rock with

Jolt Cola

,

Vasodilator

,

Conan

, etc.. The Ticket is in the next gully to the East.)

There are several prominent lines on this wall. The trad test piece,

Mile High Comic Crack

, is the splitter, finger to hand crack, on the left side of an extremely overhanging wall. The first bolted line to its right is

The Enlightenment

(5.13b/c). The third bolted line, 60 feet to the right of

Mile High Comic Crack

, is The Ticket.

It begins with a small triangular roof about 15 off the ground. Four bolts take you through the first headwall (11d) to a ledge with a pin. Pass another 6 bolts up and right, past the upper headwall (12a), to the anchors. 85 ft.

Hardman/softboy disclaimer: Although The Ticket may be slightly under rated at 5.12a, its neighbor, the

Mile High Comic Crack

(5.12a), seems even more difficult. Therefore, to avoid controversy, I have left the ratings as they are stated in the guides.

This wall receives no sun after noon, is protected by wind, and has grassy ledges at its base, making it a good hang on windy or hot summer days.

Protection

10 bolts, 1 fixed pin lead to a two bolt anchor with chains.