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Peak Mountain 3

Alphonse

FA Ken Prestrud, Lucien Warner, 1948. FFA: John Turner, 1950s
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A very enjoyable 5.8 that gradually builds in difficulty as you move higher. Usually done in 2 pitches; it can be done in one with careful attention to rope drag, which allows you to avoid the somewhat awkward belay below the crux notch.

P1: Climb the corner and face to a ledge, then step right and ascend the corner in the larger orange open book. At the top, or slightly below it, traverse left to a notch and belay. (100 feet, 5.6)

P2: Move up right through the notch, then traverse right and up to the finish. (50 feet, 5.8)

Walk-off to climber's right.

Location

The route begins in a left-facing corner 30 feet left of Grand Central.

Protection

Standard rack.