Disneyland

The classic 5.6 route in the Nears. Short approach and very popular.

Start about 30' left of Broken Sling, at a large open book capped by a roof. There is a big tree near the start of the climb.

P1: Climb up the right face of the open book, angling up and right across the many horizontals, past several old fixed pins. Make an awkward move around the nose to a cramped belay. 5.6, 45'.

P2: Move left and climb a steep corner to a roof, passing more old fixed pins. A second belay is optional here, or traverse right under the roof and continue to the top. 5.5, 110'.

Pitches 1 and 2 may be combined, avoiding the cramped belay, but it's quite difficult to avoid severe rope drag if you do this, especially the first time. Long runners, double ropes, and two-way radios are recommended if you want to do the climb in one pitch.

Walk climbers' right along the clifftop until just before the road, where you can easily scramble down to the base of the cliff and back to your packs.

Lots of old fixed pins, plus a light rack of nuts and cams to 2".