Criss

1. Climb into the right-facing corner. This ends in a roof. Step left to a belay stance. 40 feet, 5.11a.

2. Climb up a left-facing corner, past a small roof, then straight up to the top. This pitch is very contrived. Moving two feet or so (literally) left or right of the line described in the guide - at the overhangs - lowers the grade dramatically. As per the guide: 40 feet, 5.10c.

I've done the first pitch 3 times, and it is always a grunt.

Look for a right-facing, overhanging inside corner about 30 feet high; about 25 feet right of the overhanging inside corner broken by a hand crack, which is Criss Cross Direct.

Standard rack