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Peak Mountain 3

The Umph Slot

FA Pat Ament & Wayne Goss, 5.9 A4, 1964. FFA: Chuck Pratt, 1965
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Description

This is a novelty route. Still, it is one not to be missed. 5.8+ is the traditional rating, feel free to choose your own after climbing it. Begin on the left side of The Dome near

Gorilla's Delight

. Climb Pinnacle route, 5.10a or 5.11a, to the lower right side of large A-roof and the start of the slot. Struggle to get inside (for the tunnelers) and then struggle some more to escape; head jam optional. If and when you emerge (or are reborn?), take the finger crack on the left. Go spray to your friends about how they must do it.

Protection

A normal rack, include a #4 Camalot. Perhaps you need bigger gear if climbing outside the slot (not tunneling)?