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Peak Mountain 3

East of the Sun

FA unknown
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Description

Start about 75 feet up the right side of the Dome. Look for the face with several diagonal left slashes, and the three small roofs that converge about 30 feet from the side of the rock.

Pitch 1: Follow the cracks to the left. Climb over the three roofs just right of where they come together. The move over the third roof is the crux; look for a small notch to reach for with your left hand, and then bring your left foot up and smear. Move left, follow the crack up and right. Turn right around the large block past 2 old pitons. Belay at the nice chair in the corner below the chimney.

Pitch 2: Traverse right from belay station about 10 feet, and then move up the prominent crack. Onto the face, follow the crack and the small pockets up and left. Get to the large bench. You can belay from here. Crank the corner to the left side up the top via a hand jam and reaching up around the edge to the left.

Walk off.

With the longer ropes commonly used today, this can easily be done in 1 pitch.

Protection

Standard rack up to #3 Friend.