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Peak Mountain 3

Left Edge

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Description

Start at the base of a large ramp left of The Owl. Scramble up the ramp with thoughtful pro to avoid immense rope drag as you traverse left under the huge roof. There is a couple of very old battered pins at the start of the traverse, I ignored them - they looked too dangerous to trust. Set up a belay at the left edge of the roof at a comfy ledge. Pitch 2 - There are a couple of choices from here: above the belay is Gorillas Delight 5.9+ [old school 9!], traverse further left to a 5.5 crack or do what we did and go for the 5.7 crack that starts just left of the belay ledge. Step left off the safety of the ledge and get down to it! The 5.7 crack start is the sketchiest part of the climb - I stabbed a 3.5" in the crack and my heart settled down a bit. The crack above is choice hands and fists. Great!

Protection

#3.5 was very useful