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Peak Mountain 3

Roughneck Odyssey

FA: NB (rope-solo); FFA: NB and KS
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1 requires a very diverse set of “blue collar” type climbing skills! Climb the shallow, left-facing corner marked by 3 grey bolts and a small pine. At the end of the corner, continue into a nice flake, protected by small to medium cams, which leads to the arching chimney thing at a (4th) bolt (

Iliad

moves onto the right wall just below this bolt

). Make weird chimney-like moves past this to gain a stemming dihedral and a couple more bolts. Pull up and onto a ramp of sorts, and continue past a bolt and gear to where it’s possible to step left onto the face. A small TCU and #2 Camalot are good here. Crank a small overlap, and climb the face and crux roof above on 3 more bolts to an anchor on the ramp/ledge.

P2. Climb the short hand crack to the top (right side) of the Guillotine feature, then go up an easy (~5.6) chimney/groove to an anchor. This basically the top, or at least the top of any 5th Cass climbing. You can continue up another 50' or so of busy 4th Class to gain the summit.

Location

Look for grey bolt hangers in a mini-dihedral on the main slab.

Protection

See the above.