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Peak Mountain 3

Iliad

FA NB (rope-solo) through original low anchor 11/20; later extended by NB and TA
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a great techy route with lots of exposure and cerebral climbing. It starts on Roughneck Odyssey but breaks right just before the blue-collar climbing starts (below bolt 4) and climbs the steep wall via the double corners. At the point where Roughneck Odyssey becomes a chimney, make a funky move to gain the dark colored corner. It’s all bolts (11) from here. Follow the corner to its top, step left then back right, and pull the bulge on great holds to a semi-precarious stance. Step up then transition left into the tan corner. Follow this to the steep(er), right-facing corner and a few more crux moves to gain an anchor up and left. This was equipped with lower-off, steel, capture biners.

Note: you need a 70 meter rope to lower back to the start!, but you can lower onto the boulders along the base, uphill from the start, with a 60 meter! Do not attempt to lower all the way back down with a 60 meter -- have your partner TR and clean.

Protection

Gear: 14 bolts total (11 on this + 3 on Roughneck Odyssey), cams from #0 TCU to # 2 Camalot, and a few medium and long slings.