Exfoliation Station

Exfoliation Station is one of the main crack weaknesses up the south face, and packs a punch on it's second pitch.  It was first climbed ground up with some aid, and a direct entry to the second pitch was cleaned and bolted with Barry Gay Winter 2021.

P1. Climb the original start up splitter on right face past a few blocks, and work back left to a roof and a thrutchy corner. Pull up and right to a bolted belay for

Thread the Needle

, 75' 5.10 b/c.

P2. Continue up corner above to two bolts pulling the roof and corner above. Continue into the fun, bombay corner, and at the roof climb left to the bolted

TTN's

P2 anchor, 100', 5.11b/c.

P3. Pull into the elephant's trunk off the anchor and up into a fun, hanging hand crack to the right. Continue past a rap anchor, and belay on a ledge at the base of the upper wall, 65', 5.9.

P4. There are several options to choose from here. My favorite goes straight up the splitter finger crack and up overlaps past a bolt to a 2 bolt anchor, 90' 5.10-.

Rap the route.

After approaching the Roughneck from the Sawmill, you will walk past a nice buttress and some large trees at the base. Around the corner to the right the corner will be obvious from the flakes sticking from its base.

A double set to a 2; one 3 and 4, and quickdraws/slings.