Northwest Passage

This is probably a much better climb in the later afternoon and evening. We made the mistake of climbing this on a hot morning in direct sun. We were planning on climbing both pitches, but ran out of water (and time). The first pitch is continuously difficult with the hardest climbing in the lower two-thirds. The small roof below the belay ledge can easily be overcome with good footwork. This is a good climb for those that don't get pumped on Glass Ocean and want to top out next to the "diving board". I'll have to add more details once I complete the second pitch.

The direct start for Northwest Passage consists of the first two bolts of Glass Ocean. Continue straight up instead of traversing right on the ledge (Glass Ocean). Follow six more bolts to the anchor on the ledge 100 feet from the ground. There should be 2 pins at the "diving board" atop the second pitch. A two rope rappel is required.

15 draws if lead in one pitch, plus a standard trad rack to fill in the blanks. We set up a top rope on the top of the first pitch with a 60 meter rope (barely long enough). Trad gear is needed to pull the roof before reaching the bolts on the second pitch.