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Peak Mountain 3

Troubled Seas

FA Allen Sanderson, JS, July 2015
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

You're likely to find two cruxes on this one, a rather devious, somewhat scary slabby face down low, and a more straight-forward, but more difficult face up high. Climb a short crack to a face with a seam that takes a really good micro-offset (e.g., HB), and find a 5.10 way around the blankness above to easier ground. Continue more or less straight up until it is possible to step slightly right to a bolt and puzzle out the moves for a body-length to a nice ledge and anchors.

Location

Walk left along the base of Glass Ocean past the bolted routes of

Delta Y

,

Lord of the Long Arms

, and

Atlantis

until able to cut back right along the ledge system serving as the walk-off for those routes. Look for an incipient seam above a prominent, somewhat horizontal crack about ten feet off the deck. If you continue to where the ledge system rears up into a corner, you've gone too far.

Protection

Take a set of micronuts (offsets preferable, HB works better than peanut), set of regular nuts, and a single set of cams to 3". Rap from Metolious rap anchors.