Seagull

Start up onto the boulder then clutch desperately to the edges in the twin cracks. Get your stem on early. Work it quickly up on good finger locks and occasional arete holds. Once you've reached the ledge at about 2/3 way up, you can cheat out for a rest, or commit to the left crack while slapping for hidden edges on the right. Tough climbing gives way to an easy top-out on huge jugs.

Haven't climbed the second pitch yet, but it's currently teeming with grass and grunge. Ends at the

Right Gull

anchor below the last pitch. Supposedly 10d.

First stem box route, double cracks left of bolted

Old Warriors

arete, which is left of

Little Wing

nook

Gear to 1.5", doubles in small cams