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Peak Mountain 3

Excalibur

FA Tim Olson, Wayne Wallace. July 1990.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Excalibur begins on top of the Beacon Towers, which are just to the left of Blownout. There are many ways to reach the belay spot on the Towers, but Wild Turkeys is probably the best approach at 5.10C. Excalibur is a demanding lead, with both powerful and delicate sections, and, since it is rarely done, requires a good head and the ability to find not so visible holds. The crux comes high on the route and involves a very thin seem and crimps to gain a wide section in the crack. Even though it is seldom done Excalibur is a very good climb on solid rock.

Protection

Bolts and pitons protect roughly the first 3/4 of the climb, but not necessarily the hardest climbing. Small nuts and cams (between 0-5 metolious) protect the rest.


Routes in South Face


  1. 26
    Excalibur
    5.12b
    Trad