The Dirty Double

First climbed at 5.7 A3 in the 70's, the dirty double is the two tiered corner system just right of 'Beekeepers apprentice'. The two pitches are a mixture of technical and burly climbing, and will keep you on your toes while fiddlin in the sometimes sporadic gear. On the crux pitch no move is harder than V4, but the sustained and pumpy nature of the route will surely keep you engaged.

A quintessential Beacon outing!

Pitch one: 11d 35m

Climb the mossy slabs to the base of a detached pillar to the right of the scrub oak tree- Climb the right side of this pillar. Moderate laybacks will take you to a triangle ledge just below a splitter seam. Tech your way though a few pieces of small gear until you reach a good undercling. Reach high, clip the fixed pin (bomber) and cast off into the crux and through to the P1 anchor- 3 equalized pins with rap rings. These will eventually be replaced with bolts, but are bomber for now.

Pitch 2: 12c ish 40m

Stem off the anchor and and clip some more old fixed gear. Pull into a stance below the giant detached block (don't place gear behind this geological time bomb! - two new bolts higher up now protect this section), place a pice (in the corner) and move into the meat of the pitch. Jam, stem and side pull your way up to the first 'overhang'. Cop a rest above, and climb through some pumpy 5.11 climbing before pulling the second 'overhang' and onto the cruxy headwall of the route. A bolted anchor awaits on the grassy ledge above.

Either rap from here or continue on another route of your choice!

Left of Bears , Right of Beekeekeepers. The scrub oak marks the base of the route, ascending the moderate right side of the detached pillar.

Draws, a single rack (green c3-#2 Camelot) , and a set of stoppers. A few extra finger sized pieces couldn't hurt either.