Winter Dreams / Gene and George's Excellent Adventure

P1. I believe the first pitch was originally climbed from the bottom of the dihedral, followed rather poor rock until the twin cracks could be reached, and then belayed at the first big ledge. Others have also used the crack in the back of the dihedral that

Telegraph Road

is bolted on, traversed right to the twin cracks, and climbed up to the ledge, 5.8.

I climbed the route using the first pitch of

Telegraph Road

and belayed from the anchors. This adds a fun 10+ pitch to the climb and avoids the belay on the rock strewn ledge. You just need to assure the first piece is directionally good.

P2. The second pitch is a beauty. Lieback and undercling the dihedral with slick feet. The crux is where you pull out left under a small roof. Belay at a large ledge. Watch the loose rocks around the belay. TCUs and Aliens make this a lot less strenuous. .10c

P3. The third pitch follows the dihedral until it is possible to escape right before you reach the rotten rock at the roof. Small wires protect the top very well. Once you escape to the arete, follow easy rock to the top and belay at or near the top of the ridge.

Descent: to escape the ridge you can do a hand traverse to the bushes to the left, or get into the gully by downclimbing the ridge to the right, and then going up the gully (not fun). Rappel off

Life after James'

anchors (30 feet to the left, on a small ledge past the cairn. A protection bolt will get you to the anchors), or walk off to the west.

With

Telegraph Road's

first pitch, this is a 2 star route. Otherwise, it is a 1 star.

This route climbs the prominent, left-facing dihedral system on the tallest section of December Wall.

Standard rack. TCUs or equivalent are helpful on pitch 2.