We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

The Telegraph Road Goes Ever On (Variation)

FA Bernard Gillett? A combination of previously bolted lines
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start up the first pitch of

Telegraph Road

using the bolt line to the right of the corner on the arete. Once at the top of the first pitch of

Telegraph Road

; clip the anchor, and continue up and right via The Road Goes Ever On through a small bulge to a stance (one could even use the corner on

Winter Dreams

on the right to stem out). Once at the stance, continue up the bolt line directly left of Winter Dreams on the glass-like slab using the diagonal weaknesses to advance. The crux (for me) is deciphering a sequence through the aesthetic, crystal edges where footholds seem to disappear and decent edges are just out of reach. This climbs is slightly contrived. Some bolts on

Telegraph Road

are reachable, however, the climbing is memorable no matter which bolt line is taken.

I'd suggest to have your second follow and do two rappels back to the ground or the leader can do two rappels back to the ground and the partner could lead it and clean on the rappels down.

Portions of this climb can also be TR'ed when rappelling off of climbs like

Life After James

.

Location

Use the same start as for

Telegraph Road

using the bolt line closest to the arete.

Protection

15 draws not including anchors; maybe 18+ just to be safe, and a 70 meter rope. Perhaps bring some extendable slings a 0.5 and/or a small cam (black Alien/ red BD x4) for the beginning, but all the gear can be back cleaned to eliminate rope drag.