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Peak Mountain 3

Mnemonic Plague

FA unknown
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Description

This is the second farthest route to the left in the Hubbel guide. It is just a few feet left of

I Promise...

and has a dihedral/roof 10 or 15 feet up.

Start up the finger crack, and pull around the roof(5.8). Jam and smear up the thin finger crack (9+ or 10-), until a small overlap is reached where a good meduim cam can be tucked in.

Climb up the slab, stemming between, and placing a few small wires in the opposing 4 inch "dihedrals" . This was grassy and very serious when I climbed it in 2000 (5.9vs). The grass has been cleaned out since, and apparently climbs easier and offers better pro now. Belay at the ledge below the headwall.

Either finish with the second pitch of

I Promise...

or rap of the shiny chains, about 85 feet.

Protection

Small wires and TCUs. A #1 Rock and a blue Alien are handy.