- Edit (TBD)
Description
Hike uphill from
Stifflers Mom
(east) to the black roofs at the top of the "hill". The route starts to the left of the black roof.
P1
. Start up a short crack on a slab to the roof. A lone grey bolt marks the start. After clipping this start up the STEEP TCU crack, and finger traverse left until it is possible to climb up to the belay. Short 40'. 5.10/ 5.10+.
P2
. Friction up past belay clipping two bolts along the way to the black roof. Plug in a handsized cam and step up to the roof, clip two bolts and continue up passing a bolt to a funky highstep. After high step hand traverse clipping bolts to belay. 5.12a
P3
. Climb left clipping a bolt and keep going left in undercling, climb up passing 3 bolts to a roof. Plug in some cams make a few fun moves to the lip, clip bolts and do some harder slab moves to belay. 5.10+
Protection
A 70 meter rope will put you on dirt in 2 raps from the top. rack: doubles on TCUs and a handsized cam, lots of long runners.
Routes in Coal Pit Buttress
- 12Refugees From Reality5.12aTrad