- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a variation to
Nanooks of the North
or
Refugees From Reality
, which ever way you approach it. From
Refugees
climb up and left to large dirt shelf. From
Nanooks
walk to the right before the 5.10 pitches on the same dirt shelf. There is a bolted belay on the shelf. From bolted belay walk around the corner ( east) and start up the slab angling toward the corner/roof.
P1
. Start on slab angling left to bolt, clip bolt, crank mini roof and move right onto the slab towards the left facing steep corner. Climb up the steep corner protecting it w/ TCU's to the stance above the tree. Reach up and find hard to see bolt. Climb straight up passing one more bolt to a fun finish. Make your way to anchor. 5.10
P2.
From anchor crank hard start to get established on the slab. Follow seam/corner to the bolt. Move up and right pulling the steep section to get onto another slab. Climb up ino the corner, clip the bolt crank the move. Enjoy super fun dihedral climbing to anchor. 5.9+. Long 118'
Established in a funky half ass fashion of 1/2 ground up 1/2 not.
Protection
Rack: QDs and a Standard rack with doubles on TCUs is nice. Bring a 70M rope. The rap from the top of the last pitch eats up the whole rope BE CAREFUL!! It is possible to rap from the mank on nanooks or from the dirt shelf bolted belay make a short rap (west) to Refugees top anchor.
Routes in Coal Pit Buttress
- 11Organization for the Organized5.10Trad