- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route can be climbed as an approach pitch to House of Cards. It is listed in the Granite Guide as route number 5, and there is a good topo there. Definitely dirty and loose, but still kind of fun if you are up for the challenge. There are multiple dangerous run outs on poor gear. Bring you lead head and your helmet! Also bring plenty of single and double length runners to mitigate the rope drag.
Location
This route starts on a flat, trampled out spot on the approach to House of Cards, below the giant belay ledge. It is just off the climber trail to the right as you would approach normally for House of Cards. Start just to the right of the big, black streaked roof that is the only big roof below the belay ledge. Cast off, and climb more or less straight up, navigating through dirt, and loose rock as you go. I was deposited directly at the base of House of Cards when I finished the pitch.
Protection
Doubles to 0.75, singles to 3. Lotsa runners.
Routes in Coal Pit Buttress
- 2Direct Start5.9Trad