Father Knows Best

Maybe not the hardest, but likely the most sustained hard friction of the Tree Ledge approach routes; this one pretty much never lets up. One assumes the 5.8 rating in the "Selected Climbs" guidebook is a misprint.

Start at a short diagonal crack (or if you're up for it, make a direct start right of the crack). Follow the crack up and right, then straight up with delicate moves to the top. Can be toproped from the anchors with two ropes.

Starts just left of the Entrance Crack, near the right end of the Tree Ledge.

Two bolts; ring anchors at the ledge.