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Description
When you've done the well-protected approach routes like Block Route and Dirty Crack, Crystal Lizard is a great climb to up the ante. As you approach the anchors, try not to think about the fact that you're runout maybe 60' above your last bolt.
Climb past the tree pods (on your left) up and right to a bolt about 30' up. Carefully traverse back left to small dikes above the last tree, or for extra spice, go straight up over the bolt. Continue up to a large left-facing flake; climb the flake a short distance, then surmount it and move up and right to another bolt. Runout the finish to the Rice Krispies anchors at the Tree Ledge.
Location
Starts right of U Slot, about 10' left of Rice Krispies; look for trees growing out of pods in the rock. Two-rope rap from ring anchors.
Protection
Two bolts; placements for a small to medium cam under the big flake (extend it well). Shares anchors with Rice Krispies.
Routes in Stone Mountain South Face
- 35Crystal Lizard5.8+Trad