- Edit (TBD)
Description
I have never seen this mentioned as a route and do not know who climbed it first but it is a completely separate line from the surrounding routes and deserves to be mentioned. If anyone knows the name, I would be happy to change it.
Begin on the ledge between Block Route and U-Slot, just under the V shaped notch in the overlap that is used as a variation for U-Slot. About midway between the ground and the overlap, there are some flakes for placing the only pro until reaching the overlap. Depending on what I have, I use from a .75 up to a #2 BD C4. A #1 or #2 C4 works best. Once above your pro, find the weakness in the bulge to the right. Move to the right until over the bulge and head straight up to the V-notch. Plug a cam or two, with runners, under the overlap and climb up through the notch to the trees.
Some may find it a little runout but that is just normal climbing at Stone. The route is safe and what pro can be used is solid. The climbing through the bulge just above the first pro is probably a little stiffer than the move through the notch, depending on your height.
Location
Directly between U-Slot and Block Route. Climb straight up to the V-notch that is often used as a variation on U-Slot.
Protection
Solid but sparse gear. Cams work best. No fixed anchors. You could move off of the line to add a little more gear if feeling nervous.
Routes in Stone Mountain South Face
- 33Direct Start to Arch5.7Trad