The Good, the Bad & the Ugly (GBU)

An impressive line that is engaging from start to finish. The finest 5.12 on the cliff.P1 (5.11c, 160’): A few face moves gain the initial crack, or start in the overgrown left-leaning crack to the right. Either way this will take you up to a left-facing corner (not visible from front porch). Climb this and continue past a bolt, then a fixed knifeblade and two more bolts (bolts updated summer 2018). The face climbing here is very fun and the rock is immaculate. Eventually you’ll traverse back to the seam and then follow the seam/expanding flake system up to the horizontal dike. This is the location of the traditional/original belay but it is better to carefully continue another 40’ past loose, stacked flakes to a better stance. This pitch was freed by Ray Ringle in ‘81.P1 Direct (5.12 PG13, 160’): Scramble up the first few feet of The Classic, then move left into left-facing crack/flake. Climb this until it ends and continue past more weaknesses to the right-facing corner, passing three chopped quarter inch bolts. Pull the bulge and follow the seam/thin crack all the way to the prominent horizontal dike and continue carefully past the loose, stacked flakes to a belay at a stance. Tough pulls separated by good stances and small yet solid gear. Sharp crux. This pitch was freed by Gabe Kerbs summer 2018.

P2 (5.12b, 110’): From the higher belay above the hollow flakes, move right to the clean seam. Climb this seam (PG13-ish) with a cool head and some wires/sliders, and then continue up to the overhanging crux section in the brown rock. Fire this, keep it together, and mantle onto the big comfy ledge.

Tuco’s Escape/ P2 Variation (5.10 R, 110’): From the higher belay above the loose flakes, climb straight up the thin crack system passing one bashie. Reach left to another crack that angles right. Follow this until the end of the scoop and move left to the steep bulge (do not follow the line of copperheads straight up!). Place some pro in the horizontal and face climb 25 feet to the ledge.  This pitch puts lots of air beneath you and is kind of a serious lead, but it’s a good option if you’re not feeling up to climbing GBU’s crux pitch. FA Emily and Gabe 2018.

P3 (5.10b, 60’): Climb the shallow corner (or step right to a layback flake) up to some more big flakes and then traverse under/exit the roof on the right. This is how most people finish Slammer Jam as well.

Note: There is currently (2019) a fixed gear anchor at the traditional belay location on P1. Won’t be there forever, but for now it allows one to lower off after P1 with an 80m rope if desired. 

Right of the great roof is a large rounded arete. Right of this arete are the thin cracks of GBU.

Doubles from purple c3 to #2 and a full set of wires including micro offsets (esp. for direct p1). Ballnuts useful. Many draws/runners.