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Peak Mountain 3

The Coke Bottle

FA 1967 Don Weaver,Rex Lambert, John Brucker. FFA 1971 Scott Baxter, Karl maelstrom, David Lovejoy
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Also the central rappel route for GM, this chimney system is one of those routes you’ll come to love the more you do it. Good practice for more serious objectives that have runout chimney pitches.“Yosemite-style knee grinding chimney climbing” (Cramer guide)Best to climb it on a day where there aren’t many other folks climbing (literally any day of the season) since this is the most common descent off of the MountainP1: climb chimney to the rap anchor on the Froggy Bottom ledge P2: continue up chimney to the next rap anchor P3: climb hand crack in dihedral up to the High E or Beaver Cleaver finish .

Rap Route.

Location

If you’ve rappelled off GM before, you’ve likely found this route before.

Corner formed by the “little brother buttress” resting against the right wall.

Protection

sparse. Singles to #3or4 and some wires. Best to be solid in chimneys if leading