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Peak Mountain 3

A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose)

FA Jim Waugh, Leo Henson, Jay Anderson, 1987
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The Line you look at every time you arrive at the Front Porch.

Follows the obvious crack/right-trending seam up the center of the Flying Buttress on the face that is closest to the Front Porch.

P1: Start with a few moves of tree-stemming off of the Oak at the base of the route. Climb the crack (start of "Hotline") up to a no-hands stance at the large horizontal dike. Continue up, heading right to the shallow alcove/depression. Climb past the short wide crack to the right-trending seam and follow this to a belay where the seam meets the hand-crack. There’s a bolted anchor, but if continuing to the top there’s a better stance a bit higher and plenty of options for gear. P2: Continue up the inviting hand-crack that narrows to fingers and then a seam. Lots of pin-scars. (mostly 5.9ish with a 5.10 sequence at the top). Quality pitch, and highly recommended.

Belay at the top of the buttress and walk to the Coke Bottle rappel on the [climber's] right-side of the buttress, or continue to the top via "High Exposure" or "Beaver Cleaver".

Aid climbers: PLEASE leave your hammer on the ground for this one - it’s been marred plenty already.

Location

Flying Buttress.**Purchase Bill Cramer's fold-out topo-guide if you intend to spend time at Granite Mountain **

Protection

stoppers from micro to finger-size. Double set of finger-size cams, one or two hand-size cams and a few smalls as well. Confidence-inspiring #4 camalot (other options exist) for the beginning of the business. Quickdraws for pitons and wires.