- Edit (TBD)
A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose)
Description
The Line you look at every time you arrive at the Front Porch.
Follows the obvious crack/right-trending seam up the center of the Flying Buttress on the face that is closest to the Front Porch.
P1: Start with a few moves of tree-stemming off of the Oak at the base of the route. Climb the crack (start of "Hotline") up to a no-hands stance at the large horizontal dike. Continue up, heading right to the shallow alcove/depression. Climb past the short wide crack to the right-trending seam and follow this to a belay where the seam meets the hand-crack. There’s a bolted anchor, but if continuing to the top there’s a better stance a bit higher and plenty of options for gear. P2: Continue up the inviting hand-crack that narrows to fingers and then a seam. Lots of pin-scars. (mostly 5.9ish with a 5.10 sequence at the top). Quality pitch, and highly recommended.
Belay at the top of the buttress and walk to the Coke Bottle rappel on the [climber's] right-side of the buttress, or continue to the top via "High Exposure" or "Beaver Cleaver".
Aid climbers: PLEASE leave your hammer on the ground for this one - it’s been marred plenty already.
Location
Flying Buttress.**Purchase Bill Cramer's fold-out topo-guide if you intend to spend time at Granite Mountain **
Protection
stoppers from micro to finger-size. Double set of finger-size cams, one or two hand-size cams and a few smalls as well. Confidence-inspiring #4 camalot (other options exist) for the beginning of the business. Quickdraws for pitons and wires.
Routes in Middle Section
- 39A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose)5.13-Trad