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Peak Mountain 3

Abraxas

FA Bob Crawford, Pat Timson, Don Harder
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

This description only applies to the first two pitches, which are a decent way to reach Madsen's Ledge, if anyone has info on the rest of the climb feel free to add it in the comments. Free version beta in bold.

Pitch 1 (C2) - start up the thin crack just to the right of the large block, easy C1 until below the first roof, ascend the right-hand crack initially and then traverse left before the second roof, thinner, lower-angle cracks lead to the typical Index belay station: five bolts, 1 good, 2 probably good, 1 probably bad, and 1 definitely bad, none with chains or rap rings.

Note: Belay has been updated with new SS 3/8 bolts. Pitch has three new protection bolts and goes free at 5.12 something.

Pitch 2 (A2 F) - climb the short, low angle, thin crack with many fixed copperheads, have fun slinging the chickenhead.

Note: P2 is now fully bolted with the old pins and copperheads removed. Free at 5.12 something. Excellent climbing.

Pitch 3+ - god knows.

Location

By the large standing flake to the right of the main waterfall, aim for the left-most tree.

Protection

Standard aid rack, including but not limited to:

cams to 2"

cam hooks

sky hooks (At one point I hand placed a large beak in a piton scar, but only because I didn't have a cam that would fit)


2000 km
1000 mi