- Edit (TBD)
Description
This description only applies to the first two pitches, which are a decent way to reach Madsen's Ledge, if anyone has info on the rest of the climb feel free to add it in the comments. Free version beta in bold.
Pitch 1 (C2) - start up the thin crack just to the right of the large block, easy C1 until below the first roof, ascend the right-hand crack initially and then traverse left before the second roof, thinner, lower-angle cracks lead to the typical Index belay station: five bolts, 1 good, 2 probably good, 1 probably bad, and 1 definitely bad, none with chains or rap rings.
Note: Belay has been updated with new SS 3/8 bolts. Pitch has three new protection bolts and goes free at 5.12 something.
Pitch 2 (A2 F) - climb the short, low angle, thin crack with many fixed copperheads, have fun slinging the chickenhead.
Note: P2 is now fully bolted with the old pins and copperheads removed. Free at 5.12 something. Excellent climbing.
Pitch 3+ - god knows.
Location
By the large standing flake to the right of the main waterfall, aim for the left-most tree.
Protection
Standard aid rack, including but not limited to:
cams to 2"
cam hooks
sky hooks (At one point I hand placed a large beak in a piton scar, but only because I didn't have a cam that would fit)
Routes in Central Wall Area
- 19Abraxas5.11dTrad · Aid