Adrift

It's a bit complicated, but not that complicated. This climb is partially finished but some excellent pitches can be climbed by skipping the undone first pitch and rappelling before the unfinished sixth pitch. The nature of the ledge system above the first pitch tier allows for a combining of pitches to make several variations possible. We plan to finish the climb in its entirety this season but I would love for people to get on the completed pitches as soon as possible. Life is short after all.

P1, 30m- This one is not yet finished but is very, very nice and would make a great and challenging single pitch outing in it's own right. It starts just to the left of the huge ledge to the left of the waterfall and climbs a seam/corner through a small roof that eventually diminishes (crux) and passes through Non Local Bark House.

P2, 15m- Climb through a small overlap on nice edges to a challenging slab crux deadpoint with tough overhung slopers to Adrift Ledge. Beautiful rock and stunning movement on this tough little pitch. 5.12

P3, 20m- THE pitch. This is the most inspiring thing I've ever climbed. On one of my first trips to the Upper Wall, during which I struggled to get up P2 of DHLA, I looked up at this section of wall and wondered if anything could be climbed through it. As it turns out, there are

just

enough features to make it possible. The first few meters are overhanging and bouldery, with the most physical moves of the route on flat edges. Probably V6/7 to a decent shake out before an artful sequence on small crimps and big edges to a most Index of mantles and a bit of a reprieve. Traverse rightwards on perfect rock to a

highly

magical crux deadpoint to one perfectly placed knob and a tenuous hand/foot match, ~V8. A few easier moves lead to a good rest on a bread loaf hold where you can calm down and commit to the tenuous and obscure slab sequence that guards the anchor. While around 12-, this bit took me far longer than the rest to decode. Overall a delicious pitch and a true Index test-piece. 5.13c

P4, 20m- Another outstanding pitch on stunning features through the blankest section of the central wall area. A crux right off the belay on yet

another

magical hold and tiny but good feet leads to a no hands rest. Two more blocs separated by no-hands rests lead to a small corner and roof on jugs through the neat dike that cuts across the UTW. Ends on a nice ledge. Could definitely be linked with the crux pitch for just the most mega thing ever. 5.12+

P5, 15m- Pleasant climbing on the dike leads to a small ledge. 5.10

P6, 40m- This monster pitch is mixed bolts and gear, with a crux right at the end of the overhung headwall on small crimps. Super nice, a bit spicy and not yet suitable to lead to it's finish. ~11d

P7, 10m- Top out on the final pitch of Swim.

For now, access via DMT or BCE and traverse the ledge to the base of P2.

Bolts and gear to 1", doubles in fingers