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Peak Mountain 3

DMT

FA Michal Rynkiewicz, Mr. Stiggles
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

DMT consists of two pitches, the first being a variation to Non-local Bark House and the second being Steel Pole Bathtub P2 Free.

P1- Climb NLBH until a good rest in the crack. Head right on a cool open handed undercling rail and work up on excellent edges until an overhung juggy finish to a big ledge (on the same level as Madsen's but on the other side of the waterfall) ~12a, a couple of finger and hand sized pieces, a couple of runners and several bolts. You can step left here and climb Adrift's second pitch if you'd like.

P2- Climb a super mellow corner on nice edges and a crack (~5.9) until the corner peters out. You can bypass the overhung section through an all out sideways dyno to the left or work straight up on fun crimps. Either way is powerful and probably around 12c/d. Only bolts on this pitch.

You are now on Adrift Ledge, with Swim/Steel Pole Bathtub to the left and Adrift's crux pitch straight above you.

Location

Scramble up to the large ledge to the right of Swim, Behind Closed Eyelids and Adrift, beneath two obvious left-leaning cracks through a roof. Climb the leftmost crack (Non-local Bark House) until you see a bolt out right on the undercling feature.

Protection

Gear to 1", 12 quickdraws, 2 runners