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Peak Mountain 3

The Good Ol' Days

FA Thomas Emde 2004
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Good Ol' Days is a high quality multipitch route that makes it's way up the the Platform (North Tower of Smith Rock Group)

P1: start on a steep hillside to the right of two ponderosa pines. The first bolt is an expansion bolt, the second is a glue in. Easy climbing on crumbling rock leads to a step across on thin holds. The rock improves the higher you get. 11a 12 bolts

P2: head up and left clipping two bolts, then place a piece or two. Clip the third bolt and traverse left to a pleasant slab. This pitch can be easily linked with the subsequent pitch. 10b 7 bolts and gear

P3: continue on the pleasant slab with some cool fin shaped holds to a hand crack. Cross the crack and continue to the belay. 10a 5 bolts and gear.

P4: Money pitch! Step left and clip bomber glue ins as you climb a continuous flake crack. The rock can be sharp but it's very solid, steep, and exciting. Traverse again as the crack disappears to a hanging belay. 11b/c 9 bolts.

P5: start climbing on a steep slab with solid rock, eventually meeting with a crack (bolts). Easily linked into the next pitch. 10d 7 bolts

P6. The final pitch is mostly 5th class with a 5.6 move thrown in here or there. Protection is sparse and there are loose blocks, but if you have made it this far you should make short work of this pitch. 5.6 single belay bolt and high line anchor set back from edge

Descent: A 5.2 down climb trending skiers left brings you to the summit plateau. Bring shoes and head left (south) for a long walk off or head right and rappel Wherever I May Roam's descent and go over Asterisk

Protection

12 draws and slings, and a single rack. I had 3 gear placements on the whole route.