Lost in Space

What!? A four pitch 5.10 sport route at Smith? This place is turning into a multi-pitch sport destination. I know of few other places in the US that have such a high concentration of multi-pitch sport bolted routes than the Smith Rock Group. That said, there's always something a little spicy about them, and this route is no exception. An easy approach, great bolting, good rock (except the last pitch), and reasonable moves make Lost in Space one of the more accessible routes that tops out the formation. All bolt counts are approximate. Pitch 1 (8 bolts): 5.6. Follow the bolts up the chimney and onto the fin to the left. Pass the first anchors, and belay on top of the big ledge. Pitch 2 (6 bolts): 10b. Crank sloping edges up a vertical/slightly overhanging wall for ten feet, and finish on an easy slab. Fun pitch. Give it to the more thuggish partner. Pitch 3 (10 bolts): 10a. The best pitch of the route, I thought. Connive your way through tricky edges for a long way. Nicely bolted, fun moves, and most of the rock is quite solid. Enjoy the nice belay ledge at the top, and maybe set yourself up so you are sitting under the overhang. This will help protect you from rockfall on the last pitch. Pitch 4 (10 bolts): 5.9. Starting this pitch, you think, "Oh, this isn't so bad." Just give it time- you will change your mind. Thankfully, the bolt line meanders, so you aren't climbing directly above your partner for the whole thing. There is still a chance of braining your partner, though, so be careful, and everyone needs a helmet.

Just a thought, it might be possible to cheat right after the third pitch into the gully. You would want to belay this procedure, and it could be completely heinous. As dirty as the final pitch is, I think it's worth it so that you get to top out.

Even with the last pitch detractor, this route is more than worth doing. Read the next sentence with a Vincent Price voice impression: Have fun, but look out for loose rock, or you may find yourself... Lost in Space!

Starts just left of Asterisk Pass, in front of a big jutting boulder, in a large right-facing chimney. Easiest approach is to go to Asterisk Pass, and then traverse left along the base past White Satin, etc. I think the easiest descent is to do three single rope (60m) rappels down Wherever I May Roam. Top out, and find the descent gully, which is just below the top. It leads towards Asterisk Pass. Climb down this 3rd-4th class gully for 50-100 feet (rock, brush), and look for new bolts with long chains. This will be on the opposite side of the formation from what you've been climbing. The second station is also an anchor for the route, and is not a full rope length from the top. From there, it's just two raps to the ground, and it shouldn't be too much trouble to find them.

Bolted, with bolted anchors. It would have been nice to have a few shoulder length, and a double length slings for stray bolts and awkward belays. Helmets.