- Edit (TBD)
Description
Rock quality isn't great. But really great position and summit. As of June 7th 2014 it appears the anchors for the rappel route have been pulled. (Edit: apparently the anchors are there just a little tricky to find)
Suggestion:
Rack: Mixed to 4 inches
P1 10a 4 bolts, Jam past the first four bolts of "The Struggle Within" and step right to belay bolts beneath the second-pitch of "Smith Summit-East Wall."
P2 10c 8 bolts, Move up and right to join the second pitch arete of "Eye of the Beholder."
P3 10d, Naturally protected 5.7 climbing leads to a tricky, bolt protected move. Follow a widening crack to a hanging belay.
P4 10c, Jam the moderate 4 inch crack and veer right to a sport climbing finish past a bulge, belay on a comfortable ledge.
P5 5.9 4 bolts, Easy face climbing on imperfect rock leads to another anchor.
P6 10a 5 bolts, A bolted face gives way to an unavoidable dose of bad rock. Fortunately, the finish knobs are solid and fun.
P7 10d 7 bolts, The highlight of your European Vacation ascends great rock high on the finishing tower. At the arete, clip a bolt for your second and step down around the edge to a ledge. DO NOT attempt to rappel from this anchor!
P8 Step right to a bolted water streak and stem dubious rock to a much better finish. Belay from slack line bolts over the lip or go all the way to the summit and belay from there.
P1&2, P3&4, and P5&6 Can all be linked with a 70M Rope and mindful use of runners.
All pitch descriptions were cited from Falcon's Smith Rock Climbing Guide written by Alan Watts. For a topo of the route and more information go purchase the Smith Rock Climbing Guide from your local Climbing Shop.
Protection
Gear and bolts
Routes in (1) Northeast Face
- 1European Vacation5.11aTrad