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Peak Mountain 3

Tipsey

FA D. Hare, C. Oliver, 1979
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climb as for

Dementia

until you reach the small blocky roof just below the cool arete/dihedral. Go to the right, under this roof, then up a short distance to something of a ledge. From there, look to the right again and climb the left-facing corner for a short distance. A left-leaning crack will appear on your left, which is not as hard as it looks. Climb up and left on this crack to bypass the overhang (good pro), then from a ledge up to the top of the crags on easy cracks.

Although this line wanders a bit, the drag is not too bad with judicious use of 2-foot runners.

Protection

Standard light rack up to 3". The pro and plcements are reasonable, but take a few longer slings if you plan to place a lot of gear.