Seein' Double

This route climbs the arete right of

Dementia

. Great position and terrific movement are marred by a slightly contrived start on the arete. The best opening climbs straight up the arete with your chest at the bolts. It starts with the left hand in the Dementia corner for the first move or two.

Start 10 feet right of the

Dementia

/

Malign

start. Climb past 2 bolts and angle up and left to the roof at the base of the

Dementia

corner. Climb straight up the arete. Going straight up at the last bolt is slopey 12c (desperate in summer). Cutting right for a move at the second to last bolt and then moving back left again past the last bolt lowers the grade to easy 5.11.

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A #2 and/or #2.5 Friend may be useful to protect the moves to the 3rd bolt.

Per

Mark E Dixon

: it appears that the bolts were removed and the holes were patched.