Nightcap

This is a wonderful route. Start about 10-15 feet right of

Dementia

, work up nebulous terrain to gain a right-facing area with easy cracks. Work up into a thin crack that follows through a bulge. Stem and shimmy your way up and gain a nice, albeit short finger crack to the top. There is now a 2 bolt anchor from which you can watch the sun set over the canyon.

This is one of my favorite routes in the Canyon, and it is better than its neighbor

Grins

.

A standard rack, no real big gear necessary, up to a #2 Camalot and a few mid-size hexes. Smaller nuts/cams protect the business. A green Alien will protect the crux very well. There originally

were

no bolts at the top. Bring something to sling a large boulder and a larger cam or two for the belay.

Eds. there is a natural thread at the anchor.

Per

Carl Schaefer

: there is now a two-bolt anchor at the top, shared with

Malign

and

Skid Row

.