Nutsweat

The guidebook lists this as two pitches, but I think that would be a really silly way to climb this. Long runners at the very beginning keep rope drag nonexistent.

Start on the ledge that Nutsweat, Death Wish, and Reckless abandon all begin on. Negotiate a short crack/weakness through a bulge, when you pop up over this head up and left through a beautiful green corner. Near the top traverse left into a right facing corner (crux). Continue traversing left out the stupendous overhangs towards the fixed anchor.

Gear is adequate but you could go for a pretty big ride in one or two spots. Belay your second up from the anchor, one 60m rope will just get you down.

North End

Small nuts help at the high crux.